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NYC Eats: Beyond Manhattan

Von WhereWe (@wherewe)

The best eating outside Manhattan: pizza at Lucali, birria from a truck in Jackson Heights, Thai in Elmhurst, Albanian burek, Trinidadian doubles and soul food on Staten Island.

NYC Eats: Beyond Manhattan

BesuchtWunsch

New York, Vereinigte Staaten41

  • Lucali
    Restaurant
    Wunsch

    A 30-seat, candlelit Carroll Gardens pizzeria with a crackling brick oven and a line that starts in the afternoon; worth it for thin, basil-strewn pies and calzones. BYOB. Pizza & calzones · Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn · $$ · Walk-in only Good to know: No reservations; put your name in early.

    Lucali
  • Defonte's
    Restaurant
    Wunsch

    A nearly century-old Red Hook sandwich shop, the blueprint for the city's old-school Italian heroes; go big and bring an appetite. Italian sandwich shop · Red Hook, Brooklyn · $

    Defonte's
  • Red Hook Tavern
    Restaurant
    Wunsch

    A cozy Red Hook tavern where everyone orders the burger, a thick, purist patty on a sesame bun under a blanket of cheese, and nobody wants to share. American tavern · Red Hook, Brooklyn · $$ · Booking recommended

    Red Hook Tavern
  • Kabab King
    Restaurant
    Wunsch

    A late-night Jackson Heights institution for goat and chicken biryani, Bihari kebabs, tandoori chicken and kebab rolls. Pakistani & Indian · Jackson Heights, Queens · $

  • Lakruwana
    Restaurant
    Wunsch

    A Sri Lankan dining room full of masks and elephant statues behind a carved wooden door. Weekends bring an all-you-can-eat buffet of clay-pot curries; on weekdays, order the lamprais. Sri Lankan · Stapleton, Staten Island · $ Good to know: BYOB.

  • Çka Ka Qëllu
    Restaurant
    Wunsch

    A rustic, folk-decorated Albanian restaurant near Arthur Avenue, serving layered fli, flaky burek, tava kosi (baked lamb in yogurt) and grilled qebapa. Albanian & Kosovar · Belmont (Arthur Ave), Bronx · $$ · Booking recommended

  • 188 Bakery Cuchifritos
    Restaurant
    Wunsch

    A Bronx cuchifritos counter for slow-roasted pernil, alcapurrias stuffed with picadillo, mofongo and chicharrón, washed down with tropical juices. Puerto Rican & Dominican · Fordham, Bronx · $

  • Amdo Momo
    Restaurant
    Wunsch

    A Jackson Heights cart turning out hand-pleated Tibetan momos, beef, chicken or vegetable, eight to a plate for a few dollars. Tibetan momo cart · Jackson Heights, Queens · $ Good to know: A street cart near 37th Rd and 74th St; its spot can shift.

  • Dukagjini Burek
    Restaurant
    Wunsch

    A Bronx bakery devoted to Albanian burek: flaky, coiled pies filled with meat, cheese or spinach, sold by the slice or whole, with a cup of yogurt on the side. Albanian burek · Pelham Parkway, Bronx · $

  • Randazzo's Clam Bar
    Restaurant
    Wunsch

    A family-run seafood joint on Emmons Avenue since 1932, famous for fried calamari with homemade marinara (medium or hot) and baked clams. Italian-American seafood · Sheepshead Bay, Brooklyn · $$

  • Birria-Landia
    Restaurant
    Wunsch

    A truck under the 7 train devoted to Tijuana-style birria: crispy beef tacos dipped in rich consommé. Short menu, total focus. Mexican (birria truck) · Jackson Heights, Queens · $ Good to know: A taco truck; the pin is its usual parking spot.

  • Hellbender
    Restaurant
    Wunsch

    Rolo's laid-back sibling, with tacos, small plates, pitchers of margaritas around big round tables, a taxidermied jaguar and a rotating jello of the day. Mexican-American · Ridgewood, Queens · $$ · Booking recommended

  • Roman's
    Restaurant
    Wunsch

    Andrew Tarlow's mellowed-out Fort Greene trattoria, the platonic neighborhood Italian restaurant, with a short, seasonal menu of pastas and small plates that changes daily. Italian (daily menu) · Fort Greene, Brooklyn · $$ · Booking recommended

  • Ajo y Orégano
    Restaurant
    Wunsch

    One of the most colorful dining rooms in the city, where groups gather to share fried red snapper, tender pernil and smothered steaks. Every night feels like a celebration. Dominican · Belmont, Bronx · $$ · Booking recommended Good to know: The larger Belmont location; the original is on White Plains Rd in Parkchester.

  • Taste Good
    Restaurant
    Wunsch

    A long-running, cash-only Malaysian spot in Elmhurst: start with Singapore kari laksa and roti canai, then sizzling bean curd and beef rendang. BYOB. Malaysian · Elmhurst, Queens · $

  • Szechuan Mountain House
    Restaurant
    Wunsch

    Numbing, chili-slicked Sichuan cooking in a rustic, mountain-lodge setting; every meal opens with pickled cabbage and builds to platters that make your lips buzz. Sichuan · Flushing, Queens · $$$ · Booking recommended

  • Sofreh
    Restaurant
    Wunsch

    Stylish Persian small plates painted with house yogurt, heaped with herbs and studded with pomegranate seeds, in a bright Prospect Heights room. Sister to Eyval. Persian · Prospect Heights, Brooklyn · $$$ · Booking recommended

  • Place des Fêtes
    Restaurant
    Wunsch

    A relaxed Clinton Hill wine bar from the Oxalis team, with well-chosen bottles and simple, beautiful seasonal plates, many built around pristine seafood. Wine bar & seafood small plates · Clinton Hill, Brooklyn · $$$ · Booking recommended

  • Tanoreen
    Restaurant
    Wunsch

    Rawia Bishara has been cooking the flavors of her Nazareth childhood in Bay Ridge since 1998: charred eggplant, harissa-spiked 'Turkish salad,' mansaf with yogurt-braised lamb, and knafeh to finish. Palestinian · Bay Ridge, Brooklyn · $$ · Booking recommended

  • Levant
    Restaurant
    Wunsch

    A Little Egypt spot built around feteer, a flaky, ghee-brushed layered pastry served savory with shawarma or cheese, or sweet with qushta and honey. Kebabs, falafel and baklava round it out. Egyptian & Middle Eastern · Astoria, Queens · $$

  • Toné Cafe
    Restaurant
    Wunsch

    A calm Georgian café named for its round clay oven, which bakes puri bread and the boat-shaped adjaruli khachapuri brimming with molten cheese, egg yolk and butter. Georgian · Brighton Beach, Brooklyn · $$

  • Warung Selasa at Indo Java
    Restaurant
    Wunsch

    A Tuesday-only Indonesian lunch served from the back of the Indo Java grocery, with one rotating home-style plate each week, from beef rendang to nasi campur. Pre-order via Instagram. Indonesian (Tuesday pop-up) · Elmhurst, Queens · $

  • Khao Kang
    Restaurant
    Wunsch

    A counter-service Thai spot with about ten rotating curries and stir-fries a day; pick three over rice for a feast that costs well under $20. Thai rice-and-curry counter · Elmhurst, Queens · $

  • Makina Cafe
    Restaurant
    Wunsch

    The city's pioneering Habesha food truck now has a cozy brick-and-mortar home, serving sour, heavily fermented injera with tibs, shiro and slow-braised doro wot, plus hibiscus and cardamom cocktails. Ethiopian & Eritrean · Sunnyside, Queens · $$ · Booking recommended Good to know: Its food trucks still turn up around town too, like Fort Greene Park.

  • Theodora
    Restaurant
    Wunsch

    Whole fish skeletons hang over the grill at Tomer Blechman's Fort Greene spot, where dry-aged fish comes as crudo under feta foam or blackened and smoked over the fire. Share a whole fish with a group. Mediterranean live-fire seafood · Fort Greene, Brooklyn · $$$ · Booking recommended

  • Zaab Zaab
    Restaurant
    Wunsch

    A wildly colorful room serving fiery Isan Thai cooking; the larb ped udon with duck breast and crispy duck skin pulls no punches. Bring friends and a big appetite. Isan Thai · Elmhurst, Queens · $$ · Booking recommended

  • A&A Bake and Doubles
    Restaurant
    Wunsch

    A Bed-Stuy counter beloved for doubles, curried chickpeas folded into soft fried bara, plus roti and bake. Cheap, fast and dangerously easy to over-order. Trinidadian · Bedford-Stuyvesant, Brooklyn · $

  • Eyval
    Restaurant
    Wunsch

    A chic, bright Bushwick Persian spot from the Sofreh team, where wagyu kebabs, crispy potato tahdig and saffron-spiked dishes come with a playful, party-ready vibe. Persian · Bushwick, Brooklyn · $$ · Booking recommended

  • Bong
    Restaurant
    Wunsch

    A tiny, lime-green, house-party-energy Cambodian spot run by a couple and their community, serving coconut-cloaked corn, fried squid with salted duck egg and crispy whole fish. Herbs come from family gardens. Cambodian · Crown Heights, Brooklyn · $$ · Book ahead

  • Chrissy's Pizza
    Restaurant
    Wunsch

    A pandemic pop-up turned wood-paneled throwback pizzeria, selling whole New York-style pies only (no slices) that are worth the wait. New York-style pizza · Greenpoint, Brooklyn · $$

  • Nepali Bhanchha Ghar
    Restaurant
    Wunsch

    A Jackson Heights favorite for momos, steamed or fried and bathed in a tangy tomato sauce, filled with goat, paneer, shrimp or beef. Round it out with a thali set meal. Nepali · Jackson Heights, Queens · $$

  • Lilia
    Restaurant
    Wunsch

    Missy Robbins's airy converted-garage trattoria, still drawing crowds for wood-grilled scallops, frittelle and handmade pastas like mafaldini with pink peppercorns and Parmigiano. Italian (pasta) · Williamsburg, Brooklyn · $$$ · Book ahead

  • Rolo's
    Restaurant
    Wunsch

    A Ridgewood neighborhood grill with a cocktail bar up front and a roaring wood fire in back: smoky polenta bread, house-made mortadella and crispy potatoes 'war-style.' The daytime deli does great sandwiches. Wood-fired grill & deli · Ridgewood, Queens · $$$ · Booking recommended

  • Saranrom Thai
    Restaurant
    Wunsch

    A wood-paneled, incense-scented Thai spot in Elmhurst with a sprawling menu; look for crispy catfish with green mango salad and miang kham, bright and fiery. Thai · Elmhurst, Queens · $$

  • Yemenat
    Restaurant
    Wunsch

    A cozy, family-style Yemeni restaurant in Bay Ridge, known for slow-braised lamb haneeth over fragrant rice, lamb sughar, shakshouka Adeni and puffy flatbreads. Yemeni · Bay Ridge, Brooklyn · $$ · Booking recommended

  • Sailor
    Restaurant
    Wunsch

    April Bloomfield and Gabriel Stulman's charming Fort Greene bistro of fried anchovies with sage, mussel toast, egg tonnato and a roast chicken people plan their week around. Cold martinis are a given. British-leaning bistro & seafood · Fort Greene, Brooklyn · $$$ · Book ahead

  • La Piraña Lechonera
    Restaurant
    Wunsch

    A weekend-only trailer in Mott Haven where Angel Jimenez carries on his father's recipes: slow-roasted lechón, mofongo and his famous 'God's Juice.' Bring patience, the line is part of it. Puerto Rican food trailer · Mott Haven, Bronx · $ · Walk-in only Good to know: Lunch only; the pin is the trailer's usual spot.

  • Trinciti Roti Shop
    Restaurant
    Wunsch

    A fast-moving Trinidadian counter where the line is justified by shrimp-laden doubles, bake and shark sandwiches and enormous goat roti. Grab a currant roll for the road. Trinidadian · South Ozone Park, Queens · $

  • Shaw-naé's House
    Restaurant
    Wunsch

    A six-table soul food spot on the ground floor of a Staten Island clapboard house, where couches and a faux fireplace set the scene for oxtails, collard greens and Sugar Daddy Wings with a pitcher of rum punch. Soul food · Stapleton Heights, Staten Island · $$ · Booking recommended

  • AbuQir
    Restaurant
    Wunsch

    Pick your catch from the ice counter and tell the kitchen how to cook it, fried, grilled or baked in the Alexandrian style, at this lively Egyptian seafood house on Astoria's Little Egypt strip. Egyptian seafood · Astoria, Queens · $$

  • The Four Horsemen
    Restaurant
    Wunsch

    An always-buzzing Williamsburg wine bar co-owned by LCD Soundsystem's James Murphy, pairing a deep, eclectic list with small plates like sweetbread skewers and crisp fried skate. Book ahead or be ready to queue. Wine bar & New American · Williamsburg, Brooklyn · $$$ · Booking recommended

    The Four Horsemen

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