39 ืืงืืืืช, ืืืื ื ืืืช ื-WhereWe
Rome Eats ๐ฎ๐น
ืืืช WhereWe (@wherewe)
Where to eat in Rome: classic trattorias, Roman-Jewish cooking in the Ghetto, supplรฌ and pizza al taglio on the go, morning food markets, and a few special-occasion tasting menus.
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Rome, ืืืืืื39
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All-day bar and kitchen in Pigneto, once a haunt of Pier Paolo Pasolini, with a big leafy terrace from breakfast to late cocktails. Cafรฉ-restaurant / bar ยท Pigneto ยท $$ Good to know: Open daily from 8am until late.
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Classic Esquilino trattoria near Piazza Vittorio, serving carbonara, cacio e pepe and other Roman staples. Roman trattoria ยท Esquilino ยท $$ ยท Book ahead Good to know: Closed Sundays; Monday dinner only.
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Neighbourhood osteria out in multicultural Torpignattara, serving hearty, traditional Roman dishes at low prices to a mostly local crowd. Roman osteria ยท Torpignattara ยท $ ยท Booking recommended Good to know: Sunday lunch only; closed Sunday evening.
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Family trattoria with a wood-fired oven, turning out roast suckling pig and lasagne alongside Roman classics. Roman trattoria ยท Portuense (near Trastevere station) ยท $$ ยท Book ahead Good to know: Closed Wednesday and Thursday.
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Arcangelo Dandini's dining room in Prati, cooking refined versions of Roman and Lazio dishes, a short walk from Castel Sant'Angelo. Refined trattoria ยท Prati ยท $$$ ยท Book ahead Good to know: Closed Sundays.
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Creative Italian kitchen now on the rooftop of Rhinoceros, near the Bocca della Veritร , running from daytime cafรฉ and light lunch to evening dinner. Modern Italian restaurant ยท Velabro (Rhinoceros rooftop) ยท $$$ ยท Booking recommended Good to know: Moved in April 2026 from Via della Stelletta to Rhinoceros, Via del Velabro 9 (5th floor).
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Rooftop restaurant of Palazzo Manfredi looking straight at the Colosseum, with a retractable roof so the terrace works year-round. Fine dining ยท Celio (Palazzo Manfredi) ยท $$$$ ยท Book ahead Good to know: Dinner daily; lunch WednesdayโSunday.
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Alessandro Pipero's polished restaurant near Chiesa Nuova, serving refined Roman-rooted dishes including a much-discussed carbonara. Fine dining ยท Corso Vittorio Emanuele II ยท $$$$ ยท Book ahead Good to know: Closed Sundays.
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Sixth-floor dining room atop the Hotel Hassler, with windows framing the domes and rooftops of Rome as far as St Peter's. Fine dining ยท Trinitร dei Monti (Hotel Hassler) ยท $$$$ ยท Book ahead Good to know: Renovated in 2026 with an open kitchen and chef's table.
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Cristina Bowerman's modern restaurant in a glass-and-steel interior on a Trastevere alley, with creative tasting menus. Fine dining ยท Trastevere ยท $$$$ ยท Book ahead Good to know: Dinner WednesdayโSunday, plus weekend lunch.
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Anthony Genovese's tasting-menu restaurant near Campo de' Fiori, blending Italian technique with Asian and French influences. Fine dining ยท Via dei Banchi Vecchi ยท $$$$ ยท Book ahead Good to know: Dinner TuesdayโSaturday plus Saturday lunch; card guarantee with a no-show charge.
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Heinz Beck's restaurant on the top floor of the Rome Cavalieri, serving a long tasting menu with panoramic views over the city. Fine dining ยท Monte Mario (Rome Cavalieri) ยท $$$$ ยท Book ahead Good to know: Dinner TuesdayโSaturday; bookings open up to a year ahead.
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Large covered neighbourhood market near the Vatican Museums with stalls of produce, fish, cheese and cured meats, used mostly by locals. Food market ยท Prati / Trionfale ยท $ Good to know: MondayโSaturday mornings; open until 19:00 on Tuesday and Friday. Closed Sundays.
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Mercato di Campo de' Fiori Morning market on the square under the hooded statue of Giordano Bruno, with produce, flowers and spice stalls before the square turns to bars. Open-air market ยท Campo de' Fiori ยท $ Good to know: MondayโSaturday mornings, roughly 7:00โ14:00; no market on Sundays.
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Modern covered market where stalls sell produce, cheese and meat alongside counters like Mordi e Vai, known for Roman stew sandwiches. Food market ยท Testaccio ยท $ Good to know: Market open MondayโSaturday 7:00โ15:30; closed Sundays. Mordi e Vai closes mid-afternoon.
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Small Trastevere fry shop and pizza al taglio counter, a local fixture for supplรฌ eaten standing on the street. Street food (supplรฌ) ยท Trastevere ยท $ Good to know: Closed Sundays.
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Arcangelo Dandini's fried-food shop near Campo de' Fiori, dedicated to supplรฌ, the Roman rice croquette with molten mozzarella, plus other fritti. Street food (supplรฌ) ยท Via dei Banchi Vecchi ยท $ Good to know: Closed Sundays.
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The original shop of the trapizzino, a pizza-dough pocket stuffed with Roman stews such as chicken cacciatora or oxtail. Street food ยท Testaccio ยท $ Good to know: Open daily noonโ11pm.
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Bakery on the corner of the market square, turning out long sheets of olive-oil pizza bianca and pizza rossa sold by the cut. Bakery / pizza al taglio ยท Campo de' Fiori ยท $ Good to know: Closed Sundays; closes mid-afternoon for a break.
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The Roscioli family bakery, selling pizza bianca and rossa by the slice, breads and Roman biscuits to a steady local crowd. Bakery / pizza al taglio ยท Campo de' Fiori (Via dei Chiavari) ยท $ Good to know: Go before the lunch rush.
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Gabriele Bonci's standing-room pizza al taglio shop near Cipro metro, selling slices by weight with constantly changing toppings. Pizza al taglio ยท Prati / Trionfale (near Vatican Museums) ยท $ Good to know: Handy after the Vatican Museums.
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Pier Daniele Seu's pizzeria serves creative, airy-crust pizzas with inventive toppings, south of Trastevere toward Trastevere station. Contemporary pizzeria ยท Portuense / Monteverde ยท $$ ยท Booking recommended Good to know: Book by phone. Mostly evenings.
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Pizzeria-with-kitchen in a large, modern room between Campo de' Fiori and Largo Argentina, serving thin-crust pizza, fried starters and Roman pastas. Pizzeria ยท Campo de' Fiori ยท $$ ยท Booking recommended Good to know: Phone booking line open daily 10:30โ12:30 and 15:00โ19:00.
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No-frills Testaccio pizzeria with thin, crackly Roman-style pizza; you tick your order on a paper slip. Roman pizzeria ยท Testaccio ยท $ Good to know: Evenings only; closed Sundays. Cash only; queues start around 7pm.
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Loud, bright pizzeria nicknamed 'l'obitorio' for its marble tables, turning out thin, crisp Roman pizza from a wood oven, plus supplรฌ. Roman pizzeria ยท Trastevere (Viale di Trastevere) ยท $ Good to know: Evenings only; closed Wednesdays.
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Il Forno del Ghetto Unmarked Ghetto bakery selling pizza ebraica, a dense, sweet bake of dried fruit and nuts, and ricotta-and-sour-cherry tart. Bakery ยท Jewish Ghetto ยท $ Good to know: Closed Saturdays; closes early Friday afternoon.
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Historic restaurant beside the ancient Portico of Octavia, serving Roman and Roman-Jewish dishes with tables beside the ruins. Roman-Jewish restaurant ยท Jewish Ghetto ยท $$ ยท Booking recommended Good to know: Closed Mondays.
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Roman-Jewish cooking on Via del Portico d'Ottavia, including carciofi alla giudia, the crisp deep-fried artichoke of the Ghetto. Roman-Jewish restaurant ยท Jewish Ghetto ยท $$ ยท Booking recommended Good to know: Closed Tuesdays. Fresh Roman artichokes are in season roughly February to April.
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Chef Sarah Cicolini's trattoria in the San Giovanni district, cooking sharp, modern takes on Roman offal, pasta and other classic dishes. Modern Roman trattoria ยท San Giovanni (Re di Roma) ยท $$ ยท Book ahead Good to know: Book several days ahead for weekend dinners.
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Old-school trattoria on a San Lorenzo square, open since 1890, serving carbonara, amatriciana, tripe and grilled meats. Roman trattoria ยท San Lorenzo ยท $$ ยท Booking recommended Good to know: Closed Sundays. Book by phone, especially on weekends.
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Bright, modern Testaccio trattoria focused on Roman and Lazio recipes, including rarely seen traditional dishes alongside the usual pastas. Roman trattoria ยท Testaccio ยท $$ ยท Book ahead Good to know: Closed Sundays.
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Family trattoria near Santa Maria Maggiore with Marche-region cooking; known for a large raviolo with a runny egg yolk inside. Trattoria (Marche cooking) ยท Esquilino / Monti ยท $$ ยท Book ahead Good to know: Closed Monday and Sunday evening. Book 2โ3 days ahead.
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Family restaurant facing the old Testaccio slaughterhouse since 1887, a keeper of quinto quarto offal cooking, with a deep wine cellar. Historic Roman restaurant ยท Testaccio ยท $$$ ยท Booking recommended Good to know: Open Wednesday to Sunday; closed Monday and Tuesday.
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Osteria dug into Monte Testaccio, the ancient hill of broken amphorae, with the sherds visible behind glass; hearty Roman cooking and a garden terrace. Roman osteria ยท Testaccio (Monte dei Cocci) ยท $$ ยท Booking recommended
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Long-running Testaccio trattoria whose tonnarelli cacio e pepe is tossed with pecorino and pepper at the table. Roman trattoria ยท Testaccio ยท $$ ยท Book ahead
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Neighbourhood trattoria at the end of the No. 8 tram line, known for fried starters such as gnocchi cacio e pepe, plus classic pastas. Roman trattoria ยท Monteverde ยท $$ ยท Book ahead Good to know: Closed Wednesdays. Book ahead, especially for dinner.
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Deli counter at the front, tables among wine shelves at the back: cured meats, cheeses and a carbonara many Romans rate highly. Deli-restaurant ยท Campo de' Fiori (Via dei Giubbonari) ยท $$$ ยท Book ahead Good to know: Book online; fixed seatings and a card guarantee are required.
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Family trattoria run by the Gargioli family since 1961, a few steps from the Pantheon, serving classic Roman pastas and offal dishes. Roman trattoria ยท Pantheon ยท $$ ยท Book ahead Good to know: Online booking opens at midnight Rome time for 30 days ahead; parties up to six. Closed Saturday evening and Sunday.
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Tiny family trattoria on a quiet Trastevere lane serving Roman staples such as carbonara, cacio e pepe and seasonal artichokes; expect a queue. Roman trattoria ยท Trastevere ยท $$ Good to know: No reservations: first come, first served. Closed Sundays.